Alexandre Polozoff -  Eating on the Cheap & Restaurants


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Most people arriving in Paris will find food prices more expensive then they are accustomed to. So here are some tips on how to get by in Paris without spending too much money on food.

The cheapest method is to find a supermarche (supermarket) and to purchase food there. Supermarkets in Paris (like most of Europe) operate differently than they do

in the states. When you purchase fruit you have to weigh the fruit on the scales next to the fruit stand and push the appropriate button to get the sticker. Cashiers DO NOT have the ability to weigh fruit at the register. If you are brave enough to try purchasing sliced deli products remember that everything is ordered in grams so if you want about a pound of sliced ham you would ask for 500 grams of ham.

One word of warning. I have heard of, but not myself experienced, that some cashiers have ripped people off, especially Americans. The typical ploy was to give change on a 200F note as opposed to the 500F note you gave them. So just as a precaution try to use small denomination notes when paying for your groceries. Better yet, bring your VISA card! Most supermarkets in France take VISA.

Patisserie's sell french bread (baguette) which is absolutely delicious and makes a good sandwich. They typically run about 4-5F. Many patisserie also sell pre-made sandwiches on baguette which are generally priced from 18F on up. While not a great bargain if you're not in the mood to make a sandwich then you'll pay for the convenience. There are also alot of sidewalk sellers of sandwiches too.

Crepe's are another unique french food which you must try at least once and depending on how much you shop around you can get crepe au chocolat for 15F. If you are near the Bir-Hakeim metro stop you can buy them right outside the metro and by the time you get to Champs de Mars (Eiffel Tower) they will have cooled off enough to eat. And what a place to eat them in!

Coffee. French coffee is what I have always known as espresso. So those unaccustomed to this will have to get used to it because it's the only type of coffee you are going to get. Coffee prices vary wildly and you can pay anywhere from 4F at McDonalds to 35F ($7US) along the Champs-Elysées! Make sure when you purchase your coffee at McDonalds to go (sans place). This will save you about 30 centimes tax for not drinking it there.

All around Paris you will see 'Sandwich Grec' places, otherwise known as gyros. Some of these places give you an excellent and filling meal on the cheap. For about 22-25F you will get a Sandwich Grec with french fries. Some places to check out are along rue St. Denis, around the Bastille and in St. Michel.

Soda's and water. Not surprisingly bottled water in France is very inexpensive (compared to the states) and for 19F you can get six 1.5 litre bottles of water. This compares against 9F for one litre of Coca Cola. And you will see just about everyone in France is carrying bottled water. While not real palatable, very minerally tasting, the brand Contrex is what I noticed most people drinking. Next comes Vittel and almost no one drinks Evian. 


Restaurants in Paris

I suppose no guide to Paris is worth anything without a listing of restaurants to visit. One thing I found out is that most restaurants do not open for dinner until 20h00.

To the uninitiated french restaurants have a thing on the menu called a 'menu'. It is a predetermined set of entre, plate and desert. Depending on the restaurant you will pay anywhere from 45F on up per person. While your selection isn't as varied as the ala carte choices it will usually be adequate enough and less expensive than ala carte, generally.

Name Analysis

Aux Deux Canard

I don't have the address or phone number anymore, but ask at your hotel to look it up on Minitel.

Recommended by Mike Thompson, and seconded by Jon Ryan, for a business dinner this place is absolutely one of the best restaurants in Paris. After you are seated the owner of the restaurant will come out and give you not only the history of the place but some more showmanship that I won't go into so as to not spoil the surprise! By the way, the owner speaks several different languages so don't be intimidated to come to this restaurant. The menu is exquisite and as the name implies the orange duck is worth the visit. The menu is also incredibly reasonably priced! Reservations are recommended. Major credit cards accepted.

La Bouteille d'Or

9 quai Montebello, metro St. Michel or Maubert-Mutualite
Tel: (1)40.46.87.58 or (1)43.54.52.58.

Very french, very good, very nice view, very well priced! When calling for a reservation request a table by the window. The view of Notre Dame, at night, makes this a unique dining experience at an unbelievably reasonable price. The staff speaks English too. Our dinner tab for four was 1045F (~$200US) which was incredible considering we all had entrees, plat and dessert including two bottles of Medoc and 6 bottles of Evian.

Ambassade d'Auvergne

22 rue du Grenier Saint-Lazare
Tel: (1)42.72.31.22

Featuring cuisine and wines from the Auvergne region of France. Also one of the better restaurants in Paris for reasonably priced, delicious food. The decor is posh, but not ugly, and the staff is extremely efficient. Unlike other french restaurants you actually have some room here. People are not packed up against each other like sardines. Our dinner tab here for four was only 988F including two bottle of wine and aperitifs. This restaurant has been recently written up in several magazines and reservations are probably a necessity.

Le Persil Fleur

8 rue Boudreau, metro Opera
Tel: (1)42.65.40.19

Nothing very special about this place. The escargot is served cold in a salad (yuck!). The food otherwise is adequate but overpriced in my opinion.

La Coupole

102 Blvd du Montparnasse; metro Vavin; Tel (1)43.20.14.20

Reservations recommended as this place "seems to be in" at the moment.

Le Dome

108 Blvd du Montparnasse
Tel (1)43.35.25.81

[no info]

Jules Verne

Eiffel Tower

located at the Eiffel Tower (Tour Eiffel) a very trendy and upscale restaurant. Prices are in proportion to it's upscale clientele. Bring lots of francs if you decide to eat here. It is not at the top of the Eiffel but at the first level. Reservations are recommended. 


Winner of the Links2Go Paris category award.

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